BelAir Cantina was a Milwaukee-area chain restaurant until it opened a location in Madison at the end of summer. It specializes in tacos and tequila.

I was excited by the choices of tacos, only to be disappointed in their execution. In fact, you’ll find much, much better tacos a block away at Canteen.

For example, there was just enough lobster that you could detect its presence in the lobster shrimp taco ($5.95), but it was altogether super bland. I had to use the salsa from the chips and salsa to get through it. Similarly, the ninja pig taco ($3.81) depended completely on the hoisin sauce for flavor. Many bits of the pork were overcooked.

Meanwhile, the lamb in the lamb barbacoa taco ($4.28) was tough, needing a lot more braising time. I think some cilantro and jalapenos would have greatly helped this barren-looking taco. Also, I did not receive the promised rice and black beans for ordering three tacos, as you can see from the photo.

At least some of the non-taco items fared better. The Triple Ceviche ($11.05), listed in the appetizers section, is very fresh. It’s a big bowl mostly filled with cucumbers, but you will receive enough pieces of lobster (mostly claw), octopus and shrimp to make this dish worthwhile. The side of chili oil adds heat and a different direction to the flavor.

Burritos include the Gringo ($10.95, includes ground beef) and the Vegurrito ($9.85, includes grilled cauliflower), and they are massive. I knew from the first bite of my spicy pollo ($9.89) that it was going to be good. The chicken was tender, and there was a ton of it inside, with a little cabbage that provides some crunch that I could have done without. Unfortunately, the burrito was not at all spicy.

You’ll find a few soups and salads on the menu, too. The broth was thin and salty in the hominy shrimp soup ($5.75). I appreciated that the garbanzo beans were cooked through, but they just served as filler to compensate for the lack of shrimp.

If you sit at the bar, you will see a large collection of tequila that rivals Pasqual’s. The BelAir margarita ($6.50) is made with Arette Blanco and went down easily. Next time I’ll probably try the kiwi margarita ($9).

BelAir Cantina is open every day for lunch and dinner, with brunch served on the weekend.

***

See more photos in our Belair Cantina Flickr album.