Archive for the ‘Restaurant and Bar Reviews’ Category

Thoughts on restaurant reviews

Sunday, February 24th, 2013

Restaurant reviews are both easy and hard to write. Look how may food writers we have in Madison, both in print and in blog form. The barrier to entry is low–just go to a restaurant, take a photo or two and tell the world what you think.

On the other hand, the inherent difficulty is that what you write is open to intense scrutiny. Half the readers will agree with every one of your opinions, and the other half will think you’re an idiot–I know this personally.

Really, to have an “accurate” review, you need to visit the restaurant several times on different days/meal times and have your opinions corroborated by others. But, who has the time (and money) to do that?

Anyway, I was reminded this week of the scathing November New York Times review of Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar (owned by Guy Fieri of “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives”). I remember thinking, “wow, this author is really laying on the hatred of this place,” but I didn’t think there was any malice behind his thoughts.

Subsequently, Guy Fieri defended his restaurant to the likes of the Today Show and E! News, saying that the writer, Pete Wells, had an “agenda.”

What I see is that Wells was brave enough to write negatively–albeit in extreme abundance–on a popular establishment (or more to the point, a well-known chef). In Madison, we have several restaurants that have such a loyal following that I don’t think we’ll ever see a negative review from any writer for fear of the backlash.

If you have a chance, read the comments that follow the story. They’re fairly polarizing and entertaining, and a lot of great points are made.

Here’s Fieri’s Today Show appearance:

Fox & Bird preview

Sunday, February 17th, 2013

Dan Fox and Chad Vogel are currently renovating the space that once housed Underground Kitchen, site of their upcoming restaurant, Fox & Bird. In the meantime, they’re building their names through special meals, such as the upcoming Slow Pig event in March and last week’s Valentine’s Day dinner, held Thursday and Friday at the Livingston Inn and a reprise of last year’s Century Dinner.

It was a fun evening that began with appetizers and cocktails in a parlor room, continued on to a luxurious five-course dinner with wine pairings and concluded with desserts and coffee in that same parlor room.

Chef Fox is a master of the heritage pig, and the pork belly appetizer was my favorite–I enjoyed it while sipping an old fashioned and a cognac-based cocktail made by Vogel. By the way, those were just two of several creative libations he was crafting that night. I would have had more, but I knew five glasses of wine were on the horizon.

The meal, in order, with my thoughts:

  • Crawfish Lemongrass-Coconut Bisque – The pork and crawfish dumpling was a wonderful touch to a superbly seasoned bisque.
  • Smoked Duck and Foie Gras Pin-Wheel –  Prior to the evening, I never would have thought to eat foie gras with beet-apple compote or candied orange, but they all complemented each other perfectly.
  • Ossabaw Speck-Wrapped Black Bass – Nice, light dish, with delicate accents from the squid ink reduction.
  • Grapefruit-Pistachio Crusted Lamb Chop – Loved the lamb, but I didn’t care for the bed of roasted carrot, beet and French Puy lentils, which opposed the lamb too much. I also was surprised that despite this dish taking more than 30 min. to be served to us, the lamb was very rare.
  • Future Fruit Farms Brown Butter Peak Cake and Bitter Chocolate Cake – Most memorable part of these two desserts? The candied rose and beet petals. Flowers can apparently be tasty, too.

While these dishes may not necessarily be served at Fox & Bird, it’s a great preview of things to come. To see more photos, please visit our Fox & Bird Flickr set.

Buck & Badger

Saturday, February 2nd, 2013

Craving a fish boil? Have a hankering for some lamb? The new Buck & Badger, which took over for the space once occupied by Ian’s Pizza last November, is your destination for northern comfort foods.

Among the animals I ate in my visits to this lodge-like restaurant were duck, boar and bison. First, though, I want to talk about my surprise favorite, the beer brat corn dogs ($8.95). The brats were juicy, the breading was the right thickness and you get three tasty mustard sauces for dipping.

I did like the pan seared duck breast ($15.95), despite the pitifully small portions. I didn’t care for either of the sides, as both the sweet potato gratin and the carrots were under-cooked.

I can’t remember the last time I had boar, but I’m sure it had more flavor than the bland boar burger ($9.95, no sides). What saved this sandwich was the tasty boar bacon and the Gruyere cheese. I ordered the burger medium but got it rare.

The buffalo pot pie ($14.95) is worth ordering again. It contains a hearty amount of stew meat, mushrooms and potatoes, and the flaky puff pastry has a buttery goodness (though you have to use a knife to cut it). For the less adventurous eaters, Buck & Badger has five different salads on the menu.

I should stress that although there is a bar (it’s where you used to choose your slice of pizza at Ian’s), it’s primarily a restaurant. That’s because the bar area is really small, has no atmosphere and the owners want you to go to another one of their establishments, the Ivory Room, after your dinner (show your receipt for free cover). Plus, there are no drink specials here.

Buck & Badger is open every day for lunch, dinner and carryout.

Buck & Badger Northwoods Lodge on Urbanspoon

    North Italia Urban Air

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