Archive for the ‘Restaurant and Bar Reviews’ Category

Bonefish Grill

Sunday, December 7th, 2014

Madison got its first Bonefish Grill in November, opening near Shopko by West Towne Mall. I accepted my invitation to sample some dishes and drinks, and I returned later to check out more of the menu. I’m usually weary of seafood restaurants in non-coastal states, but Bonefish pleasantly surprised me with its dishes.

Overall I enjoyed most of the menu items, but the service needs improvement. Take for example what happened during dinner. From the time we sat down, the waiter didn’t take our order until 17 minutes later, he didn’t serve our bread for another 17 minutes and the food arrived 37 minutes after we ordered it. That is slooooooow. Other friends I’ve talked to have had similar experiences during lunch and dinner.

Since I ate so many different things, let me just blurt them all out:

  • The Bang Bang shrimp ($10.40) is a must-order appetizer. Great crunch to the battered shrimp, which is tossed in a semi-spicy Asian sauce.
  • The roasted mushroom flatbread ($9.40) is complemented by a pleasing truffle aioli.
  • The cilantro shrimp salad ($13.30) is brightly flavored and colored with the vinaigrette, feta, tortilla strips and other toppings.
  • The thick cut of ahi tuna steak ($17.30) goes very well with the pan Asian sauce, one of five signature sauces.
  • The Chilean sea bass ($25.40) was flaky and tender on the inside with a delightful grilled texture on the outside. Try it with the mango salsa.
  • While the lobster-stuffed shrimp ($10.90) is tasty, it’s not very filling, as you just get four pieces of shrimp.
  • Kate’s Wild North Atlantic Haddock ($20.90) is mild as expected but enhanced with the butter sauce and garlic crumb crust.
  • The filet mignon ($19.90) was my only disappointment. Parts of the meat were overcooked, and overall the filet lacked flavor and tenderness. Even the white truffle butter didn’t help.

I can’t believe I’m saying this, but my favorite dish at Bonefish was the creme brulee ($6.90). I have no sweet tooth and would pick something salty over sweet 99 times out of 100, but this was decadent, creamy and perfectly rich. I cannot believe this is a seasonal item–it should be on the menu year-round!

Last but not least team are the excellent cocktails (I look forward to sitting at the outdoor bar next summer). Of note are the Winter White Cosmopolitan ($7.90), which includes St. Germain Elderflower liqueur and is not overly sweet, and the Cold Snap Cocktail – Blackberry Frost ($8.50), made with Reyka vodka, Solerno blood orange liqueur, muddled blackberries and fresh lemon juice and served in a glass made of ice. An accompanying sleeve holds the ice glass together–just make sure to drink it quickly!

Bonefish Grill is open every day for lunch and dinner, with brunch on the weekends.

***

See more photos in our Bonefish Grill Flickr album.

Bonefish Grill on Urbanspoon

The Statehouse

Sunday, November 23rd, 2014

I have many fond memories of eating at the Admiralty Room to celebrate one occasion or another. It was always an elegant evening topped with a stunning view of Lake Mendota.

Both the elegance and view are back with the Edgewater Hotel’s new flagship restaurant, The Statehouse, and I hope to create new memories there.

First impressions are key. Here, after you climb the lobby staircase or come off the elevators, you see the back of the bar and large lounge. You then walk past the open kitchen into the main dining area. For me, it was like walking onto the bridge of a cruise ship with the beautiful view (seen only during the day).

And yes, the food met my expectations. I was delighted to find charcuterie items as part of the appetizer list, so I got the fois gras torchon ($10). The plate contained a big slice of foie gras accompanied by pickles, mustard, pickled pears and toast, which was so brittle that it was hard to spread the fois gras on it. Still, it was an excellent way to start the meal.

Entrees include seafood, steaks and chops. The striped bass was one evening’s catch of the day ($32). I thought it was a perfect contrast of tender, flaky fish complementing a crisp skin. It came with roasted tomatoes, green beans and a subtle basil emulsion.

I also splurged on the most expensive menu item, the 45-day, dry-aged bone-in ribeye ($60). I liked the beefy flavor, the hollandaise sauce worked surprisingly well and the side of bacon-onion jam was a pleasant touch. While it was a delicious steak, I don’t think it was $60 good, and thus for that reason, I wouldn’t order it again.

The Statehouse also is worth visiting at lunch. Of course you’ll find the requisite sandwiches and salads, but I ordered the brick oven sausage pizza ($12), which also is available on the bar menu. The sweet roasted peppers helped accentuate the flavors, and the corn meal crust added a welcomed crispiness.

Lots of great apps at lunch, too. I settled on the duck confit poutine ($10). The duck was immensely succulent, and there was a generous portion of cheese so that you weren’t stuck with plain fries at the end. You have to try this!

Finally for dessert, I had the beautifully arranged ricotta cheesecake parfait ($8; thanks Lana!), topped with perfectly preserved cherries (not tart at all) and a pistachio brittle of which I could have eaten an entire plate. I think next time I’ll have to order the chocolate olive oil cake ($9), paired with marinated strawberries and housemade yogurt.

The Statehouse is open every day for lunch and dinner, weekdays for breakfast and weekends for brunch. A bartender said happy hour will be added soon.

***

See more photos in our The Statehouse Flickr set.

Statehouse on Urbanspoon

Doolittles Woodfire Grill

Sunday, November 16th, 2014

Doolittles Woodfire Grill is a regional chain (North Dakota, Minnesota and Wisconsin) that opened in May near East Towne Mall in an area already dominated by other chain restaurants. Its specialty is wood-fired rotisserie cooking, although I was underwhelmed.

From the parking lot to the front door, patrons are greeted by an enticing smell of smoked meats. However, several menu items failed to deliver on these aromatic expectations. The ribs, for instance, had little smoky flavor, plus they had barely any meat, and the meat that was on it was tough to chew. The spit-roasted chicken had slightly more flavor; only the tender and juicy meat saved it from being a complete disappointment.

At least the Applewood bacon and smoked cheddar burger was done right. Big pieces of bacon and a wish-I-had-more smoked paprika aioli topped a fresh-off-the grill patty. I just wished the accompanying fries weren’t so blah.

Many of the appetizers caught my eye, such as the Asian pickled tacos and the woodfire buffalo wings. However, I settled on the walleye fingers, which I enjoyed. Good fried taste to the flaky fish, nice parmesan crust, plus a creamy tartar sauce make this dish worth ordering again.

The rest of the menu is comprised of salads, sandwiches, saute dishes (e.g. linguine with shrimp) and steaks (how’s that for using four “S” words in a row?).

Doolittles has a huge, four-sided bar in the center of the restaurant that indicates it could be a good place for happy hour. TVs are placed in the upper corners of the ceiling to steer away from being a sports bar. Just beware of the high drink prices. A screwdriver, for example, was $7, and that’s after the $2 discount.

I always get nervous when I see more hostesses than waiters (see my review of The Egg and I), and that’s what happened on a weekend lunch. Three hostesses greeted us, but we didn’t see one of the two waiters for nine minutes, and only after I asked a hostess to send a waiter to our table.

Doolittles Woodfire Grill is open every day for lunch and dinner.

Doolittles Woodfire Grill on Urbanspoon

    Madison Symphony Orchestra Urban Air

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