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New menus at the Edgewater

Sunday, July 24th, 2016

Despite opening less than two years ago, the Edgewater Hotel has overhauled its food offerings. A revamped management team includes a new GM, a new executive chef and consulting help from Bartolotta Restaurants. I was invited recently to see the outcome of these transformations that abide by the theme of “Modern Midwestern.”

There’s much to like about the new menus at the Statehouse and Augie’s Tavern (the now-named bar inside the Statehouse)–the Boathouse also has a new menu–and here are my highlights. Overall, the improvements should attract diners who enjoy high-quality meals.

Emphasis on seafood. You’ll find it everywhere on the menu, from the appetizers (e.g. snow crab claws) to the raw bar section to the entrees (e.g. grilled Atlantic swordfish).

I mean this, I probably have never had better octopus than the broiled octopus ($14) found on the “chef’s unique appetizers” section of the menu. Not at all chewy, excellent grilled flavor and punctuated with the guanciale vinaigrette.
The broiled 2 lb. lobster ($58) is very simple, and that’s exactly what I want out of a lobster dish. You don’t need the drawn butter, believe me.
I’ve always been a fan of Dan Fox’s Heritage pigs, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a 14-oz Heritage Farm Tomahawk pork chop ($26) among the entrees. Save the parts by the bone for last–they’re incredibly flavorful.
You barely even need to chew the mega-tender, 22-oz Painted Hill Farm ribeye bone in ($48). I’m not sure why enhancements (e.g. Bordelaise) are offered, because they’re not necessary.

Bar food, too. Start or end your night at Augie’s, named for the previous owner of the Edgewater. You’ll find bar snacks, small plates, sandwiches and salads on the larger-than-expected menu.

Get an extra napkin to eat the “MSG” wings ($10), which are smothered in a finger-licking-worthy maple-sherry gochujang sauce (it’s savory).
The onion rings ($7, also available as a side at the Statehouse) are battered with both beer and vodka (of course, you can’t discern the vodka). I appreciated that the onions were quite mild. The homemade A-One sauce added a hint of sweetness.
On my next visit, I look forward to trying the braised porkbelly ($10) and the Beast Burger ($13; topped with beer-braised onions, A-One sauce, onion rings and Hook’s cheddar).

The Statehouse is open for dinner every day, breakfast and lunch Monday-Saturday and brunch on Sundays.

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See more photos in our Statehouse Flickr album.

Tags: American, downtown, seafood
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Bonefish Grill Summer Menu

Sunday, July 17th, 2016

Now’s a good time as any to visit Bonefish Grill, which added recently a summer menu. I had the pleasure of being invited to sample the entrees, which include North Atlantic haddock and lobster-stuffed shrimp.

May I start you off with a drink? You’ll find two fruit-based martinis on the menu.

You’ll be greeted with a burst of berry flavor after one sip of the Fresh Strawberry Rosé Martini ($9.10), which is muddled with raspberries, blueberries and of course, strawberries. The Belleruche rosé comes in, too, in a complementary way.
The Fresh Watermelon martini ($9.40) is comprised of cucumber-infused vodka and muddled watermelon.

Good variety in seafood selection. I appreciated that the seasonal menu is focused but has some breadth to it.

The Wild Sockeye Salmon With Spinach, Bacon, Blue ($23.90) is big, flaky and mild. The toppings are generous but still let the salmon shine through.
Both parts of the Fresh Walleye & Shrimp $25.90) are indeed super fresh, and the grill flavor reminds you of summer. You don’t even need the citrus aioli; the walleye and shrimp stand out on their own.
The Fresh DayBoat Scallops ($22.90) are incredibly soft and tender (sushi grade as described), which is expected from scallops that come off the boat in less than one day. Like the other dishes, the scallops are so fresh that they don’t require the lemon butter drizzle and bacon, though both are nice touches.
End your meal with the Fresh Strawberry Shortcake ($7.30). It’s a dry biscuit that sits on a massive bed of strawberries and is drizzled with creme anglaise.

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See more photos in our Bonefish Grill Flickr album.

Tags: seafood, west side
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Julep

Sunday, July 10th, 2016

Many, many cars drive on East Wash every day, but how many of the drivers have noticed the nondescript Julep in the 800 block? Probably very few, and that’s too bad for them, because you’ll find Julep is an excellent spot for southern food and cocktails.

Julep shares interior and exterior space with A-OK (coffee shop) and Barolo (bar). All three opened last fall.

Drinks first. Of course, with a name like Julep, you have to expect mint juleps served here. You’ll also find other craft cocktails and a lengthy spirits list on the drink menu.

The house julep ($7) features Four Roses and is mild on the mint flavor.
The Yellow Chartreuse stands out the most in the Butterfly Weed ($9).
Pop’s Garden ($9) is sweet enough to mask the bourbon.
On the other hand, the bourbon sweet tea ($6) is not that sweet and actually has some strength.

Onto the food. The one-page menu has appetizers (“snacks”), little plates and “dinners.” You’ll also find nightly specials (e.g. fried perch was available on a recent Friday).

The Cast Iron Cornbread ($6) is light, not too dense, has a crispy crust and goes exceptionally well with the fluffy butter.
The chicken in the fried chicken thighs ($18) is de-boned and seemed like white meat. Still, it’s very moist and coated in tasty, crispy skin with a slight hint of heat. The accompanying ham hock was scattered through the sweet and enjoyable collard greens.
The shrimp fritters ($6) sort of remind you of a hush puppy, except these were soggy and lacked flavor.

Julep is open every day for dinner.